2 UP and 2 DOWN
Written by Sous chef Shza | Edit This Post!
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“I reside in VA, ride in VA…most likely when I die I’m gonna die in VA”
–Gene Thorton
Are you aware that 8 former presidents are from the state of Virginia? That Warren Beatty, Charlie Byrd, Ella Fitzgerald, Jimmie “the Sausage King” Dean, or even Bob Mutha*#@*in Saget are originally from Virginia. Or that William Clark (of Lewis and Clark fame), Lawrence Taylor, Dave Brockie (I’ll spare you the wickipedia look up…he found GWAR), and even esteemed food writer R.D. Cooke all hail from the Old Dominion State. Well even if you are aware of any of this (liar!), I am positive that many of you are not aware that before the Sous Chef Shza (oh yeah, Im not scared of speaking in the third) set his kitchen up in the big city he called Virginia home. It’s a little known fact, but a fact indeed.
Being from Virginia there is a certain obligation to touch base from time to time, to grace my home state, which was created for lovers, with my presence. Although this may have been one of my reasons for my recent trip to VA, I will admit I had junkie-esque ulterior motives. In Leesburg, Virginia, about 45 minutes South of our nations capital, lies one of the finer eating and drinking establishments I have encountered. It might sound obscene to take a train three hours only to travel by car another forty-five minutes just for a restaurant. But, I assure you I would and will do it time and again to visit the aptly named ‘Wine Kitchen’.
The Wine Kitchen was founded by Jason Miller under the premise that the kitchen is the most inviting and comfortable place in a home, and that all good parties will, at some point, end up in the kitchen. The wine kitchen offers a relaxing place to enjoy the local flavors, whether it be the wide variety of wines or the locally grown cuisine. And enjoy I did.
Things started out with a bang when a charcuterie plate, along with three artisnal cheeses, came my way. This plate, while amazing in every way and the freshness of the ingredients evident in each and every bite, was no match for me as my eyes and stomach set for the next course….which was the Parisian herb gnocchi. Fantastic to say the least, this gnocchi was served in a bed of brussel sprouts (the vegetable in this gnocchi dish changes with the season and at the whim of the chef, Chris) as well as pearl onions, balsamic, and ricotta in a brown butter sauce. Things were heating up. Now for the main course I was treated to a NY Black Angus strip steak topped with a bordelaise sauce served with a potatoes-prosciutto-leek gratin and sautéed greens. The steak felt as it melted in my mouth and was filled to the brim with flavor. Excellent. Lastly was dessert, and I believe Jason, who knew I had come from New York with lofty expectations, was just showing off at this point. To top off the meal he convincingly placed a glowing dish of cereal milk panna cotta (originally the brain child of Christina Tosi, Momofuko’s pastry chef) in front of me and walked away. I would delve in further to the deliciousness of this meal-capper but I’d rather not get into it without one sitting in front of me.
Although it is tough to slow my roll here and stop talking about the edibles I must take a moment to discuss the wine. The variety is plentiful but the staff always veered me in the proper direction. Many flights are offered, many of the local wineries (and don’t dismiss Virginia, it is far from Napa but it is an up and comer to keep an eye on) are on display but also many fine wines from elsewhere. Personally I started with the 2006 Baton, Laguna Ridge, a Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley in California. Jason, very cleverly, describes it in this fashion:
“What does this wine and a 100lb bag of cotton balls have in common? Both are super – soft and weighty at the same time. This pinot noir is chocolate, cherry, and fresh cranberry flavors all rolled into a delectable shiny ball with a subtle luscious interior of clove spice and wild berry flambé. A much easier drink than cotton and not as dangerous as flambé – a perfect pinot”
Well said. I followed multiple glasses of this with a bottle (I was on vacation, stop your judging!) of Delectus (Petit sirah from Napa). The only thing you have to know about this wine is that Delectus means “the ultimate choice’. Amazing.
The meal, thus my trip to my home state, was a success. It’s good to go home again especially when there are gems such as this to hold me down until I get back to New York’s bountiful excess of ridiculous feeding. But I think, at the end of the day, no matter where we live or come from, we can all rest a touch easier if we take the sage advice offered from the wine kitchen to….Eat. Live. Simply (The central theme/ motto for the Wine kitchen).
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